AN AMERICAN IN PARIS & NORMANDY

“Hello, All! My name is Beth and I was asked by Uncle Steve to do a guest blog and I was thrilled to take part. I went on my very first international trip in September with Viking River Cruises. I was highly skeptical of a cruise but found it to be a wonderful experience. We chose this particular trip, Paris and the Heart of Normandy, because everyone else I was traveling with hadn’t spent much, if any at all, time in France. I hadn’t been anywhere, so I was up for an adventure! We spent two days total in Paris and then really went throughout the entire region of Normandy. The highlights were seeing the landing sites of Operation Overlord, the Louvre, and Versailles.

DAY 1

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

This dog is wearing shoes.

Day 1 was not a great start to this trip. Mom and Dad were on one flight while Barbara and I were on another. Their connection was through DC, ours through Newark. We got a notification early in the day that our connection was going to be late. But we were unprepared for how late it was going to be. Barbara and I finally took off from Newark at 2:30 AM on Sunday. We were supposed to arrive in France around 10:00 AM on Sunday, we finally made it onboard after 6 pm. Needless to say, we were exhausted but things could only go up from here.

First picture in France

As we were getting on the ship Barbara and I walked into a safety drill being performed by staff, crew, and passengers. Barbara, myself, and our travel companions were exempt from this. To this very day, I have no idea what you’re supposed to do in case of emergency on a river boat cruise. Do not depend on me to save your life

Best memory from Day 1 was hearing my mom’s voice coming up the stairs. I went over to the staircase and just stood there with my arms folded. Kerry, who was behind my mom, ran past her to grab me and give me the biggest hug. It was lovely to have Kerry be the first person I saw after 24 hours of traveling. They both looked adorable in their life
vests. Wish I got a picture.

DAY 2

All-Day Excursion: Scenic Paris and Highlights of the Louvre. No one knows what The Louvre stands for or means. We took a bus tour through the city. We stopped at a few places and were able to stretch our legs

Me and Mom

Our Lady of Paris, Notre Dame

Paris City Hall

I suddenly remembered my Charlemagne.

From Uncle Steve: I asked Beth about the Charlemagne reference. She said it was from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. I had no idea but liked the movie and had to include a clip.

Everyone always talks about the Louvre and how it’s a must do. And they
were right. The amount of history and cultural significance that is housed
there is mind blowing. I didn’t grasp that the Louvre used to be an actual palace. I mentally deny that monarchs lived here. In my mind it’s always been an art museum. Sue me.

Mom and Me having lunch at a cute cafe before our afternoon at the Louvre.

We mainly focused our attention on French artists (which was okay by me
because my favorite artist happens to be French, Jacques-Louis David) as
opposed to the Ninja Turtles. We were able to see the Venus de Milo, Joconde (Mona Lisa), The Coronation of Napoleon I, and others

The Coronation of Napoleon and Josephine, Jacques-Louis David, 1807
Very big painting. Very big. Huge. Human for scale.

Virgin of the Rocks Leonardo da Vinci (1483-1486)

Side note on the Mona Lisa (Joconde). Lots of people try to get a
picture of her smile and still somehow call her overrated. I disagree.
She’s an important part of our world cultural history. Just about
everyone knows The Mona Lisa. I got to see her in person but I did not take a picture. The experience of seeing her is enough for me. But Dad got a picture and I stole his for the purpose of this blog.

The pyramid was also interesting. “The scar on the face of Paris.” I still found it beautiful. Just maybe not in the backdrop of a medieval fortress?
Da Vinci Code, where you at?

Uncle Steve: Beth, I knew this one.

Ah. The Louvre. This is the only family picture the three of us were able to get.

Our guide was named Marielle. She was Parisian and had lots to say about the preparation for the 2024 Olympics. She always made sure to point out which buildings had been cleaned and which ones hadn’t been as of yet. As if this somehow was a slight on the buildings that hadn’t been cleaned.
The Louvre was a medieval fortress and we were taken to a lower part of the palace to see one of (if not the last) the last remaining original stone walls of the structure. Being in the “basement” was the coolest part of our day. Literally.

Sisters

DAY 3

We had a laid back morning in a beautiful village called La Roche-Guyon. Very Beauty and the Beast “Bonjour!”

Chateau de La Roche-Guyon

This is where Erwin Rommel was headquartered during the occupation of
France. The caves and walkways leading up the medieval keep were used to
keep German munitions. The keep behind the chateau was originally built in the 12th century

This may have been the first location that really hit home to me the history of WWII, especially with seeing the memorial placard of a gentleman who died there while fighting with the French Resistance. His marker is inscribed: “Here fell on August 23, 1944, at the age of 72 years old, Lt. Edmond Mansuy, died for France on command service.”

Dad and I, and eventually with John and Kerry, explored the beautiful
village. We popped into a corner shop that had beautiful produce and lots of snacks. John and Kerry went into a bakery where Dad debated bringing something back for my mom. John said: “Let’s compromise, Rob. You buy a pastry for Jeanie, but I’ll eat it.”

St. Samson Church: Built in 1404, only open on Sundays

Excursion: Monet Foundation in Giverny
Our tour guide was Emmanuel. He was enthusiastic about Monet and his history. It was so hot this day and I felt physically ill but that did not stop my appreciation for Monsieur Monet

Claude Monet has always been a revered painter and he is the leader of the
Impressionist movement. He led a complicated life but we got to see where he enjoyed the later years of his life. The gardens are self-sustaining including a nitrogen-rich lily pond, cow pastures, an orchard, etc. They make various apple flavored liquors from the apples that are grown on site.

This is the one excursion my mom was adamant about. She loves the paintings of the water lilies and was thrilled to be able to see the garden and water lily pond in person.

The water lily pond on the left

view from Monet’s bedroom

DAY 4

We had a wonderful guide named Anne who was lovely. Definitely one of my favorite guides we had. A young person nearly ran her over with a scooter and she shouted in her microphone “Une stupid fille!” I don’t know if she referring to herself or the young person.

Oldest Inn in France 1345

Tomb for the Heart of Richard the Lionheart. His intestines are buried in England.
Tomb of Rollo, the First Duke of Normandy, died 930

Star of the Show: Jeanne d’Arc

It fascinated me that Joan of Arc is as beloved as she is in French culture. Coming from a Protestant perspective, I’m surprised that she is revered by France due to her (alleged) heretical speeches. Rouen idolizes her and gives her the justice she is deserved. The Cathedral of Rouen was consecrated in 1063, in the presence of William the Conqueror. It holds the tomb of Rollo, First Duke of Normandy and the Heart of Richard the Lionheart

Highlights:

Seeing the execution site of Jeanne d’Arc

The Palais de Justice, the local courthouse. This is most likely the site where Joan of Arc was tried for heresy. We were not allowed inside due to a trial happening. But it sure is a fancy place.

The Gros-Horloge – 14th century astronomical clock. There are 14 still in existence in France alone. Joan of Arc would have seen this exact clock during her trial and on the way to her execution.

The first picture is a chapel dedicated to Joan of Arc

DAY 5

Excursion: The Normandy Beaches
We started our day on a two hour bus ride to Caen where we visited the Memorial de Caen museum outlining the invasion. You started the tour with a downward spiral staircase with the rise of Hitler. Again, symbolic. Germany too went on a downward spiral towards racism disguised as nationalism.

Replica of Churchill’s war room map

Invasion plan from English perspective

Sherman tank

Colleville-sur-Mer. We then took an additional hour bus ride to the actual beach and cemetery. The beach was quiet and solemn. There were a few military groups that were being given tours. The only flag I saw on the uniforms was from The Netherlands.

John and I bumped into a former Royal Marine who gives tours in the cemetery. We heard some kind of jet fly by the beach and he said those were French fighter jets patrolling and telling Russian aircraft to “back off.” He was very nice and he and John had a nice conversation about their service. Speaking of John’s service, there was a moment at the memorial where all the people on our boat were asked if they served and to step forward. John stepped forward. We were all crying. There was a small wreath ceremony and it was beautiful to see the generations of soldiers who were on our boat.

Along the back of the Memorial is the Wall of the Missing. Over 1,500 names are inscribed of young men who were declared missing in action.

“Comrades in arms whose resting place is knowingly only to God. Here are recorded the names of the Americans who gave their lives in the service of their country and who sleep in unknown graves. This is their memorial. The whole earth is their sepulcher.”

We all got goosebumps. I still get goosebumps. There were a few surnames that were repeated and grouped together by state. We concluded that there were some brothers that landed on the beach and were killed in action. Maybe even cousins. Another inscription along the front of the Memorial:

“This embattled shore, portal of freedom, is forever hallowed by the ideals, the valor and the sacrifices of our fellow countrymen.”

DAY 6

We spent the morning cruising to Les Andelys

There was a demanding walking tour of Chateau Gaillard that I did not go on. I instead opted for the leisurely tour with John. We had a fun time just walking around the village and getting tidbits from Ken, our program director. His job is “cruise.” IYKYK

Chateau Gaillard is now just ruins but it was a structure built by Richard the Lionheart in 1198.

Kerry, Mom, and Barbara were not feeling well so they did not get off the ship this day. John and I walked around and stumbled upon a beautiful wedding. The church is St. Savior Church of Petit-Andely. The bride looked beautiful and the guests did not disappoint.

I came across a monument dedicated to a man who flew in a hot air balloon across the English Channel: Jean-Pierre Blanchard (1753-1809). He was also the first person to make balloon flights in England, North America, Germany, Belgium, and Poland. Side note, the French did not like us calling it the English Channel. They just call it The Channel.

DAY 7: A LONG DAY

Excursion 1: Chateau de Malmaison, aka Josephine’s House

She bought the house without Napoleon’s help or knowledge. Boss. Ass. Bitch. I was surprised at how much the French revere Napoleon I. Our tour guide was quite startled when she heard the meaning of the “Napoleon Complex.” She said she enjoys learning about these American sayings from passengers.

Her mother-in-law hated her so someone was petty and put Josephine’s portrait up on the right beside her MIL.

The Room Where it Happened…It being, the negotiation for the Louisiana Purchase.

Napoleon’s bed

Josephine’s bed

Excursion 2: Versailles

Obviously, enough said. Once we arrived outside the palace, it hit home why Louis and Marie might have not been as well liked. The opulence was astounding. We got to see their bedrooms and the Hall of Mirrors.
Americans view Marie Antoinette as this spoiled queen who didn’t care about people but the French love her and find all of the observations about her to be nothing more than propaganda. Our guide defended her and she made some points.

Excursion 3: Paris Cruise by Night

Our very last excursion of the trip was very pretty. To see all of Paris lit up from the river was a great way to cap off the trip.

I can’t say there were any real negatives, except the unexpected heat dome we found ourselves trapped in. I had a wonderful trip and I can confidently say, I have been bitten and smitten by the travel bug.

I can’t wait for more to come!

Beth